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  • Palio di San Ranieri

    By Anthony Parente

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    The city of Pisa hosts a two-day feast to celebrate their Patron Saint, San Ranieri. In the evening of June 16th, the town celebrates with the Luminara lighting up the town with candles. On June 17th the town prepares for the Palio di San Ranieri where boats compete for the "paliotto."

    The tradition of the Luminara dates back to March 25th, 1688. Cosmo III de Medici had the urn of San Ranieri relocated to the Cappella dell'Incoronata (now Cappella di San Ranieri) in the Cathedral of Pisa. Cosimo had the urn replaced with a more magnificent and lavish one and the city celebrated the occasion by lighting up the city with candles.

    Tens of thousands of glasses containing waxed candles are hung on white wooden frames that are attached to the facades of bridges, buildings, churches and towers all along the Arno River. The Leaning Tower of Pisa as well as the Piazza dei Miracoli are illuminated with oil lamps. The city turns off all the public lighting and buildings along the Arno only use candles indoors to not interfere with the luminara. The candles light up the city and reflect off the Arno giving you a spectacular view of the city. The evening ends with a firework display over the Arno River.

    The Palio of San Ranieri is an annual rowing race held on June 17th to celebrate the Patron Saint of Pisa, San Ranieri. Records show that the first palio dates back to the 13th century and was held to honor the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. It was not until 1718 that the palio was moved to June 17th to honor Pisa's Patron Saint.

    Palio di San Ranieri
    The race is against the four historic districts of Pisa: Sant'Antonio (green boat), San Francesco (yellow boat), Santa Maria (blue boat) and San Martino (red boat). Each crew consists of eight rowers, a helmsman and a climber. The boats used in the competition are typical vessels used by Knights in the Order of the Saint Stephen's (the order was created by Cosimo I de' Medici to fight the Turks and pirates who sailed the Mediterranean Sea). The race is 1500 meters (4921 feet) on the Arno River starting at the Ponte della Cittadella rowing against the current until they reach the finish line at Scalo dei Renaioli. Victory does not go to the boat that arrives at the finish line first. This is where the climber takes over as he gets on the floating platform where there is a ten meter (approximately 33 feet) high flagpole. He must climb to the top using one of the four ropes to capture the blue flag claiming the "paliotto" (symbol of victory) for their district.

    Climbing the flagpole is to honor the Knights of the Order of Saint Stephen's. On October 7th, 1571, at the Battle of Lepanto a naval engagement took place, and the Ottomans were defeated. The Knights climbed the mast and claimed the enemy's pennant, which is now housed in the Church of Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri in Pisa.

    Preceding the regatta is an historical procession through Pisa. The palio is more than a race it recalls the glory of Pisa being one of the great Maritime Republics.


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