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  • Sassari's Candelieri Festival

    By Anthony Parente

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    Di Gianni Careddu - Opera propria, CC BY-SA 3.0
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    Di Gianni Careddu - Opera propria, CC BY-SA 3.0
    3 / 4
    Di Gianni Careddu - Opera propria, CC BY-SA 3.0
    4 / 4
    Di Gianni Careddu - Opera propria, CC BY-SA 3.0

    Sardinia, an enchanting island in the Mediterranean, is famous for its rich culture and captivating traditions. Among its most cherished events is the "Candelieri" festival ("La Festa dei Candelieri" or "The Festival of the Candlesticks"), a historic celebration that lights up the city of Sassari each year. This festival, filled with color and symbolism, is a testament to Sardinia's enduring spirit and communal pride.

    The origins of the Candelieri festival date back to the late Middle Ages and took on its current form in the 16th century. During the time of the plague that swept through Europe the people of Sassari made a vow to the Virgin Mary, promising to carry large wooden candlesticks through the streets if she would deliver them from the devastating epidemic. The plague eventually subsided, and the grateful citizens honored their vow, thus establishing the tradition of the Candelieri.

    Held annually on August 14th, the eve of the Feast of the Assumption, the Candelieri festival is a grand event that draws both locals and visitors. The highlight of the celebration is the "Faradda di li Candareri" (the Descent of the Candlesticks), where large, ornately decorated wooden candlesticks, each representing one of the city's ancient guilds (called gremi), are carried through the streets of Sassari accompanied with a drum and some guilds also have a fife.

    The 13 guilds are: Braccianti (Laborers), Autoferrotranvieri (Bus, Tram, and Railway Workers), Macellai (Butchers), Fabbri (Blacksmiths), Viandanti (Wayfarers), Piccapietre (Stonecutters), Falegnami (Carpenters), Contadini (Farmers), Calzolai (Cobblers), Ortolani (Greengrocers), Muratori (Bricklayers), Sarti (Tailors), and Massai (Landowners). The candlesticks, which can weigh up to 400 kilograms (882 pounds) and reach heights of 3 meters (10 feet), are hoisted by eight strong, coordinated people known as obrieri. Each wooden candlestick bears the typical symbols of each guild.

    The gremi meet at the piazza Castello for a mass at the Chiesa del Rosario (Rosary Church). At 6pm the descent starts along Corso Vittorio Emanuele led by a brass band. Along the way each group moves their candlesticks as if it was dancing. Tradition tells us that the more the candlestick fluctuates the better the year will be. You will see them swing through the crowds turning in different directions. The gremi close to each other will dance together making the candlesticks bend and touch as if they were kissing. The Descent ends at the chiesa di Santa Maria di Betlem (Santa Maria of Betlem Church) where they will enter the church around midnight.

    The Candelieri of Sardinia is not just a festival; it is a vibrant expression of the island's spirit and cultural wealth. In 2013 it was recognized as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity by UNESCO. Through its lively procession, symbolic candlesticks, and communal celebration, the event offers a window into the heart of Sardinia.

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