On my last trip to Ischia in October 2006, I passed through Piazza Scotti in Piedimonte just as the Vendemmia or grape harvest celebration was getting started. The townspeople roasted a pig and grilled all sorts of meats that went splendidly with the wine they were serving. The decorations included garlic and dried peppers, and the food sat on large wine barrels. There were vendors selling Italian CDs and toys for the kids. The smell from the grill wafted into the car window, and I might have actually drooled.

In the background stood the Santa Maria della Porta church with its colorful portrait of the Madonna on the clock tower. Nearby is a pastry shop with delicious treats. Unlike most Italian piazzas, this one is usually mostly for passing through and not so much for lingering. Still, a few blocks away, you'll find a Sanpaolo Banco di Napoli, where you can change your dollars to euro and meet some friendly tellers. And when you first arrive at Piedimonte, you'll pass by Dafne, a lovely jewelry store, where you can find everything from casual silver bracelets to fine diamond encrusted white gold necklaces.

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